Egyptian designer Fadwa Mawahab says selling luxury abayas is no easy task

Last year was definitely a big one for modest fashion. From Dolce and Gabbana abayas to headscarf-clad models at New York Fashion Week, and the rise of exciting ventures closer to home such as street-style UAE brand Miella and Qatar’s first modest sportswear brand Oola, the industry is definitely taking shape.

And it’s big business. According to the “State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 2015–2016,” Muslim shoppers spend an estimated $230 billion on clothing, a figure that is projected to grow to $327 billion by 2019.

Despite the rise in modest fashion’s popularity, the market is still hankering for more in the luxury segment. That’s one of the reasons why Egyptian abaya designer Fadwa Mawaheb decided to take the plunge and set up her own venture.

DRESSING TO IMPRESS

After making a commitment to follow her religion more closely, Fadwa struggled to find a loose-fitting abaya that did not look dull or boring.

“I would go shopping for abayas for hours until I found something wearable,” she told us. “Luckily, my sister was taking fashion courses at the time and had setup her own atelier, so I went up to her and asked her to design an abaya for me.”

One abaya in, and Fadwa began to create her own designs. After being stopped in the street and at social events and being asked where the designer bought her abayas, Fadwa decided it was time to start taking orders. In early 2015, she sold her first abaya and launched her eponymous line.

“I remember my first-ever all-lace abaya design,” she says. “Whenever it runs out of stock, I just remake it. Even if it doesn’t sell, I like to see it in front of me on a stand to remind me how far we’ve come. My first-ever Egyptian pound of profit was spent on purchasing more machinery.”

Neighbouring markets soon started to take notice. “I was approached by several Facebook groups and pages [representing people] who wanted to stock my abayas in their countries and sell them on my behalf. I was worried at first that my designs would fall into the wrongs hands, then I just left it in God’s hands and proceeded anyway.”

Fadwa Mawaheb abayas can now be found in stores in Qatar, Kuwait, Jordan and Saudi Arabia.

TRADITION VERSUS TRENDS

Creating designs that are both modest and modern is not an easy task. Every abaya Fadwa creates is expected to bridge a cultural gap between tradition and trendiness.

“I don’t go for flashy colours, tight fabrics or heavily embellished abayas—that would totally negate the whole point of wearing an abaya to begin with—but I like to have fun and get creative with the fabrics I use, [along with] prints, dark colours and loose cuts.”

This formula is what helps Fadwa create Shariah-compliant abayas that are modest, timeless, and chic. But she knows that the key to a successful design is experimentation; this allows her to present a diverse array of garments that suits every need, occasion and body type.

“I try to avoid as much as eye contact with the fabrics I love working with. Sticking to one fabric will get you stuck in a rut.”

IN THE PIPELINE

Fadwa is now creating custom-made luxury abayas with Swarovski crystals and high-end fabrics and flowy cuts as well as mommy-and-me prayer outfits and children’s abayas to encourage kids to pray and practice religion at a young age. She’s even designed her first “gym abaya.” The designer releases new designs every week to keep her clientele guessing what’s next.

She says, “I don’t follow the fashion calendar; I have my own calendar. I get bored easily and I’m sure my clients do too, that’s why I release a new design every week to keep things fresh.”

How to take care of your abaya

Want to know how to make your abaya last longer? Fadwa sums it up in two words:

“Dry clean.”

When asked about choosing the best abaya to compliment curvy figures, Fadwa suggested avoiding horizontal stripes, bright colours and certain fabrics.

“Sometimes I refuse to sell abayas to my clients because they don’t look spectacular in them. I honestly tell them if the colour or cut isn’t matching their skin tone or body, and I suggest an alternative that would work better.”

“My main and only goal is to create mini ambassadors for the abaya—girls who make abayas look chic, exciting, modest, and wearable.”