Global fashion brands seeking ‘authentic connection’ with Islamic values

Until recently, the modest fashion space was dominated by designers, retailers and other industry players who are native to the modesty genre. Modest fashion labels, from Jordan-based Shukr to Indonesia-based Shafira, were established, owned and grown by entrepreneurs who identify with Islamic values.

However, with the e-commerce modest fashion industry estimated at $5 billion in 2014 (State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 2015/16, and DinarStandard estimates) the potential of this market has attracted an increasing number of mainstream fashion brands such as DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, and Mango to enter the space.

What challenges can Western mainstream brands expect when they move into modest fashion and how should they adapt to these challenges to optimize their chances for success?

WHAT SETS MODEST FASHION APART

It’s an attractive, growing market, but requires one to understand the subtle play between creativity, religious values and cultural norms. It is important for Western mainstream brands to understand that being a player in the modest fashion sector is not only about creating a collection with longer hemlines; it is also about understanding the values of modest fashion wearers in order to imbibe authenticity into the brand.

For Muslims, as expressed by Shukr’s founder Anas Sillwood, clothing is a form of expression of devotion to God. As such, modest fashion companies are responsible for providing a “genuine alternative” to prevailing norms by creating appropriate, creative solutions that are in line with Islamic principles of modesty, shyness (haya’) and moderation.

While there are variations on how these principles are interpreted and implemented by producers and consumers from different cultures, religious groups and schools of thought, there is some general consensus that modesty entails clothing that properly covers the body while avoiding focus on ostentation, sexuality and extravagance at the same time.

Lucia Russo stands as a case in point. Founder of L.RüssoUrbanCouture, Russo is an up-and-coming Italian designer with extensive experience working with major fashion labels such as Max Mara, Roberto Cavalli and Alexander McQueen. Upon introduction to modest fashion during the first Global Islamic Economy Summit (GIES)-Modest Fashion Roundtable in Turin this year, Russo was invited to debut her modest collection at 8th Heya, Doha Fashion Forum in November 2015.

“To speak about modest fashion is not only thinking [about] tunics or long dresses, but to deepen and respect the indissoluble relationship between elegance, lifestyle, and faith,” Russo explains in an exclusive interview with DinarStandard.

“I recognised in “L.RüssoUrbanCouture”, we know about the technological requirement and the tailoring quality required in this field. So I decided to amplify my fashion brand by combining an Islamic fashion dream and Western fashion in my Spring/Summer’16 collection, answering needs in MENA and Far East markets,” She said.

Mainstream fashion brands can enter the space but must manage the risk of being seen as inauthentic, or worse, unethical. This is not an insignificant risk, as several pieces of research have confirmed the importance of honesty and authenticity for brands.

For instance, a 2014 study by Cohn & Wolfe suggests that 63 percent of consumers surveyed across 12 global markets would buy from a company they consider to be authentic over and above its competitors. The same study also suggests that authentic characteristics such as communicating honestly about products and services are significantly more important to global consumers than product utility, brand appeal and popularity.

In 2013, the most expensive abaya was revealed, created by British designer Debbie Wingham. It was roundly criticized in the media. News portal Al Bawaba called the dress a “religious cover-up”, proving that excessive extravagance – even in the form of a full covering traditional dress -- does not agree with the modest fashion audience.

WHERE TO START

First, assess the market opportunity and strategic fit with your brand. Russo, for instance, credits her participation in GIES-Modest Fashion Roundtable as “a launch pad in a new fashion market” due to the knowledge and networking that she was able to gain from the event. She further studied the market by observing some style icons in the space, namely Princess Ameerah Al-Taweel and fashion blogger Hana Tajima. Finally, she combined the insights that she obtained with her own strengths and signature style.

“L.RüssoUrbanCouture” Spring/Summer 16, will put the focus on exclusive textile design realized by special sustainable techniques,” Russo says. “It is my desire to show to fashion audience the possibility to wear modest fashion outfits in an urban, soft pop way.”

Second, conduct a test case. Western brands that have reaped success in modest fashion exhibit a good balance of sensitivity, empathy and creativity. Numerous brands have taken first important steps in the space before committing to full product lines. By naming its 2015 Ramadan collection “the ideal guest”, Spanish ready-to-wear brand Mango pays tribute to the sacred month.

Even more recently, Swedish retailer H&M was lauded by many for featuring a hijab-wearing model in its eco-conscious campaign, signalling the label’s move to embrace non-mainstream consumer segments normally overlooked by retailers.

Collaborate with renowned modest fashion designers and market participants. This strategy was taken by DKNY and Uniqlo when launching their Ramadan collections in 2014 and 2015, respectively. By outsourcing the looks for their Ramadan capsule collections to fashion bloggers respected in the space, these brands tapped into the expertise, know-how and network of these bloggers and were able to shorten their learning curves.

KEY SUCCESS FACTORS

Finding the right partnerships and channels. Fast fashion label Uniqlo and blogger Hana Tajima share a common Japanese root, making the collaboration between the two a great fit.

The Uniqlo x Hana Tajima Ramadan collection was well-received in Southeast Asian countries where it was launched. Meanwhile, DKNY, Mango, Tommy Hilfiger and Oscar de la Renta chose to market their Ramadan collections in select websites and stores across the GCC, targeting the tech-savvy, deep-pocketed segment of Middle Eastern shoppers.

Creating a social media-friendly campaign. DKNY’s debut Ramadan collection in 2014 generated a significant amount of publicity due to the brand’s collaboration with well-known Middle Eastern bloggers Yalda Golsharifi and Tamara Al Gabbani.

In addition to fronting these well-known bloggers to style the brand’s capsule collection, DKNY also hosted a Q&A session for the bloggers’ fans on the brand's website. The whole campaign was tied together with the hashtag #DKNYRamadan, generating awareness on social media. Similarly, the appearance of Malaysian singer/songwriter Yuna in Uniqlo’s Ramadan collection ad is a smart move that generated awareness of the brand’s move.

It’s important to be inclusive of non-Muslim countries. There tends to be a strong focus on Muslim-majority countries, with the lack of availability of collections in Western countries raising criticism from consumers. “What’s the point of having these Ramadan collections from these huge brands and huge designers if they’re only being made available to people overseas who are already well aware of Ramadan and inclusive of it?” says Amani Al-Khatahtbeh, founding editor-in-chief of MuslimGirl.net in an interview by Fortune. “Really, it’s here in the U.S. or other Western countries where that kind of visibility would go a long way.”

The positive response received by British retailer House of Fraser when it began to stock sports hijabs as well as by H&M when it aired a hijab-wearing ad should highlight the potentials of employing a more diverse sales and promotion channels when addressing modest fashion consumers.