Rise in Islamophobia offers challenges and opportunities for the modest fashion space
From the United States to Europe to Australia, the latest wave of anti-Muslim incidents has created fresh setbacks for the modest fashion industry, placing greater pressure on brands and retailers to get their messaging right.
The industry was already dealing with various challenges, such as establishing its own fashion calendar independent of the mainstream one and developing more brick-and-mortar stores. However, regular strains of Islamophobia popping across the world is making it tougher for the modest fashion industry to thrive.
“The retailers and the media are the key groups where the industry faces most challenges. At the latest Modest Fashion Week in April 2024 in Istanbul, one key global media outlet refused to cover the event because it was called modest,” Ozlem Sahin Ertas, CEO of Modest Fashion Weeks by Think Fashion, tells Salaam Gateway.
But the challenges aren’t new and won't last, she adds.
“Modest fashion is a mature industry now that can absorb ongoing incidents and it is still community oriented, which is special and beautiful. We continue to explain how modest fashion is diverse and inclusive at every chance, and it’s good to see our vision is reaching the right stakeholders in the mainstream.”
Miami Modest Fashion Week, the first modest fashion week in the United States, has also faced challenges in identifying brands and organizations that share the event’s ethos.
“By thinking creatively, we’ve partnered with groups aligned with our values and strategically mobilized our events to countries where we feel our audiences and participants are safe and supported,” Norsham Mohamad-Garcia, founder and producer of Miami Modest Fashion Week tells Salaam Gateway.
Mohamad-Garcia is also the founder of the Youth & Women Modest Group by The Connector Group.
Resilient space
Anti-Muslim incidents including harassment of hijab-wearing women have significantly increased since the Palestine-Israel conflict in October 2023.
More recently, the Islamophobic and racist riots in the UK have led Muslim women, particularly those who are visible and wear the hijab, to be extra vigilant when stepping out.
The Islamophobia trends are permeating across what are meant to be secular landscapes. Last year, France barred its athletes from wearing headscarves during the recently concluded Olympic Games. This was followed by the country’s highest court upholding a government ban last September on the wearing of abaya in public schools, rejecting complaints that it was discriminatory and could incite hatred.
Yet, these developments are not expected to slow down Muslim spend on apparel and footwear, which is expected to reach $428 billion by 2027 from $318 billion in 2022, registering a CAGR of 6.1%
, according to the State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 2023/24.
Moreover, the industry's resilience is evident as more people embrace modest fashion, raising awareness and respect for Muslim values.
A June report by Vogue Arabia suggested modest fashion took over international fashion shows in 2024, with hijabi models owning the runways and designers like Valentino showcasing modest outfits at their couture shows.
“The Muslim consumer group worldwide is a valuable market for any brand, and that’s what we've seen with the boycotts happening over time. When Muslims come together and boycott brands, it really does damage their pocketbook,” Alia Khan, founder and chairwoman of the Islamic Fashion and Design Council and its spin-off ModestLife.Style, tells Salaam Gateway.
“So, we need to continue to be unapologetically ourselves with our value system. We need to make sure we are heard with kindness. We should speak up and not shy away or back down, because this is a time for us to be the best ambassadors of what it is to be Muslim.”
Getting the messaging right
While the surge in Islamophobic bias has created challenges for the modest fashion industry, it has also unleashed an opportunity for brands to further empower Muslim women.
“Empowerment begins with education, but the responsibility also lies with retailers to create spaces where modesty is not just seen but celebrated,” says Mohamad-Garcia.
“Retailers must serve as cultural liaisons, curating collections that resonate with the essence of modest fashion while educating the mainstream on its significance.”
Miami Modest Fashion Week uses an interfaith platform to bridge gaps, showcase authenticity, and challenge misconceptions, she says.
“By amplifying diverse voices and crafting inclusive narratives, we move toward a future where modest fashion is understood, respected, and revered across all cultures.”
Meanwhile, Istanbul-based Think Fashion has helped to promote the industry by organizing traveling “Modest Fashion Weeks” for nine years, with at least 20 countries participating in each edition, according to Ertas. The latest event showcased collections from 24 brands, including, for the first time, Palestinian haute couture label Sineen.
“There are many talented Muslim women, both hijabi and non-hijabi. Some of them had success stories at the Olympic Games Paris 2024. We should celebrate these strong women in different industries and share their stories from a fashion and lifestyle perspective with various collaborations,” says Ertas.
Sifan Hassan, a Dutch-Ethiopian marathon runner, competed at the Paris Olympics event without a head covering but later chose to don one during her gold medal ceremony, in what is being widely viewed as a soft protest against hijab marginalization. Also, Hassan managed to set a new Olympic record.
Consolidating gains
On balance, the modest fashion industry has built a rich narrative around modesty and challenged stereotypes over the years. Following the recent Islamophobia spike, it needs to uphold that narrative.
“The modest fashion industry has shown Muslims in the best light. We’ve shown how stylish we are, how our value system comes before anything else, and how our decisions are based on our beliefs and principles. None of that can be violated, and the retailers and brands understand this,” says Khan.
“The best thing the industry can do now is to put out the right messaging, not just an advertising-based profile, but showcasing the authenticity of who we are as a people. The more the industry puts out what defines us as Muslims, the more consumers will proudly embrace that."
"Fashion is a powerful language; we must use it to let the world know who we are.”
Middle East countries such as Lebanon, Türkiye, and Egypt, as well as Asian nations like Indonesia, Bangladesh, and Uzbekistan, often use the term ‘religious tourism’ to attract visitors to their trove of Muslim heritage sites.